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TRU NATURE'S
DOG TRAINING ARTICLES
Copyright © 2008
by
Michelle Masters
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED:
No part of these articles may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and
recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as
may be expressly permitted in writing from the copyright owner.
Requests for permission should be addressed to Michelle Masters, Tru
Nature, Weybridge Farmhouse, Stambourne Road, Great Yeldham, Halsted,
Essex. CO9 4RB
ARTICLE LIST
Click on the article title below to be taken directly to that Article.
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The Effects of Diet on
Behaviour
General Training Tips
Rules of Clicker Training
Teaching Self Control
Puppy or Rescue DOG?
Recommended Reading
Winter Games to Play
The
Dominance Theory or 'Pack Rules - True or False
An Introduction to
Clicker Training
Why Proof Train your Dog
FREE Puppy Socialisation Guide
Living with Dogs
- What does it look like to them?
The Dog's
Perspective
Socialisation
Stress
and it's effect on your dog's behaviour
Is it a question of Dominance?
The Importance of play &
Some Games your dog may Enjoy
Can We
Stop the Puppy Farms?
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THE
EFFECTS OF DIET ON BEHAVIOUR
Do you recognise any of these symptoms?
Hyperactivity
Lethargy
Excessive Drinking
Excessive Scratching
Eating Grass
Coprophagia
Digestive Problems
Grumpy / Snappy
Overly Anxious / Stressed
T hen
your dog could be suffering from poor nutrition or an imbalanced
diet. Read on to find out more about the effects of your dog’s diet
on his behaviour……..
It is common to find many people who suffer
allergies or reactions from eating certain types of food and drinks.
Modern medicine has developed significantly to realise that the
chemicals used to produce many processed foods and the ingredients
used to preserve them, can have considerable effects on the human
body, mind and behaviour. This is also relevant for dogs and is an
important concern when dealing with behaviour problems.
It has been found by veterinary surgeons and leading
behaviourists that diet-related allergies definitely have an affect
on the behaviour of dogs, these consequences are very individual to
each dog but there has not been enough significant research carried
out to suggest that any specific ingredients have detrimental
effects on behaviour.
The influence of diet on behaviour can be momentous
or in addition to a larger underlying cause. In some cases where the
diet is particularly poor or inappropriately balanced, problem
behaviours can disappear simply through altering the nutritional
balance of the diet, but in many cases an adjustment to the dogs
nutritional intake can be very effective when used in conjunction
with behaviour modification techniques and training.
It is essential when considering a dogs diet that
daily energy needs are taken into account, it can be an easy mistake
to provide a high energy diet, believing it to be a good quality
diet, to a pet that only gets a small amount of exercise each day.
It’s a little like feeding a bucket of oats (a high energy releasing
food) to a horse, and then expecting it to stand calmly in a stable
for the next 24 hours.
Points that you must consider when calculating
feeding levels and types of food to choose, are things such as the
size of the dog, whether it is a puppy, average age or elderly dog,
the general health and current weight and the levels of exercise the
dog receives. This will ensure the provision of an adequately
balanced and appropriate level of feeding. Generally if diet is a
contributing factor to behavioural problems it is most often because
there is an imbalance. It is commonly thought that high protein
diets are bad and can be the cause of hyperactive behaviours, and
whilst this can be the case, it is just as important to ensure that
the diet is nutritionally balanced to suit the individual dog’s
requirements and that the amount of food being given, is suitable
for the dog’s lifestyle. You wouldn’t feed the diet of an Olympic
athlete to an office worker who only exercised once a week when he
played football with his son at the weekend, it works the same way
for dogs!!
Some indicators of possible diet related behaviour
may be excessive drinking, excessive itching and scratching
especially at the top of the tail, eating grass, fibre based
destructive tendencies such as toilet rolls and tissues, coprophagia
(eating faeces) digestive problems (constipation or diarrhea)
allergic reactions, flatulence, inconsistent motions and increased
or decreased activity levels. These behaviours individually are not
necessarily indicative of a diet problem and can be present for many
other reasons, however the more of these behaviours present, the
more likely a diet deficiency should be considered.
There are now a vast number of manufactured dog
foods available to pet owners and many of these are produced with
sales in mind as opposed to canine health and nutrition. They are
manufactured to appeal to the owners by looking appetising and
colourful in order to increase trade. Unless pet owners are
knowledgeable in correctly analysing the content of the food, it is
likely they won’t even know whether it contains a good balance for
the needs of their dog and his lifestyle.
There is much controversy surrounding the subject of
manufactured dog foods, and whether they are actually healthy for
our dogs, or whether they in fact contain many unhealthy, unnatural
ingredients. It has become increasingly common over recent years for
diet to have an undeniably extensive effect on the behaviour of so
called ‘problem dogs’. I would advise any owner who is remotely
interested in what they are actually feeding their dogs, to
investigate thoroughly the ingredients and manufacturing process
that produces the dog foods they buy.
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GENERAL TRAINING TIPS
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1. |
Always keep training sessions short. |
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Puppies need only 5 minutes at a time |
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Older dogs can do 10-15 minute sessions but will also
benefit from lots of short 5 minute ones (Utilise those
advert breaks!) |
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It is better to do more short sessions than one long one |
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2. |
When using food as your reward in training sessions, always
train just before meal times (so the dog is actually hungry) |
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3. |
Rewards |
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Know what motivates your dog food / toys / praise |
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The amount and quality effects behaviour (dog will work
harder for bigger/tastier rewards) |
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Variety – Use a variety of food / toys / praise rewards to
keep training interesting and maintain motivation
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Low value rewards = normal feed nuggets / pat on the head
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Medium value rewards = Cheese / hot dogs / packet treats /
fuss / vocal praise / toys |
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High value rewards (jackpots) – Chicken / Sausage / Liver
Cake / favourite game or toy / big fuss / excited vocal
praise |
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4. |
Distractions |
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When training new behaviours always begin in low distraction
surroundings |
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Increase distraction levels once the behaviour is
established |
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Increase to maximum distraction and ensure behaviour is 100%
at this level = reliability of performance in any
circumstance |
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5. |
Always end your training sessions on a good note
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If a session is not going well, go back to a behaviour the
dog can do well and finish it there |
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6. |
Always set up training sessions for success |
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7. |
Reward the things you like – ignore the things you don’t
like |
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8. |
Training should always be fun! |
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9. |
Avoid training sessions if your dog/puppy is tired |
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10. |
Punishment will result in stress = a stressed dog is unable
to learn effectively |
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11. |
Always use short clear commands/cues – Use exactly the same
word each time |
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12. |
Consistency is paramount in dog training – they can easily
be confused if you keep moving the goal posts? = Stress |
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13. |
Never embark upon a training session if you are in bad mood |
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14. |
Persistence and
Patience
– remember how
it feels to learn/understand ESPECIALLY when you don’t speak
the language! |
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15. |
Use calm, authoritative tones when issuing commands/cues –
shouting can stress and confuse dogs and is not necessary |
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16. |
Issue commands/ cues only once – If the dog does not respond
find out why don’t keep repeating the command |
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RULES OF CLICKER TRAINING
Clicker Training
has proven to improve the dog/owner relationship by helping dogs that
have a tendency to find the environment very rewarding, to focus their
attention back onto their owners. It is fast, effective and long
lasting. It is also kind and enjoyable.
Clicker Training
is an effective method of communicating with dogs in a consistent way,
which helps them to learn quicker and understand more clearly what we
are asking them to ach
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The click needs to be associated (charged) with a reward
(treats/praise etc) before you start
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Never Click Close to your dogs ears (try it on yourself!!!
L )
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Only click ONCE
for each action
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Do not multiple
click as a special reward for a great response - one
click + multiple treats = Jackpot reward
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Don't lie with
the clicker. If you click, even at the wrong time, always treat
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The timing of the
click is very important. Practise away from your dog if
necessary
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Use the click to
mark behaviour you do want but also mark the absence of behaviour
you don't want
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Once the
behaviour is established, ask for two before clicking and treating.
Always praise your dog for correct responses.
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Keep practice
sessions short.
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Reward the click
at the start of each session
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Do not reduce the
food rewards too quickly
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When the
behaviour/action is being offered reliably, introduce
a cue word/visual signal, at the same time as your dog
performs the behaviour.
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Allow your dog to
move away, around and then come back during a session. Do not
pressure your dog to do what you want. If in doubt - STOP.
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If your dog tends
to just sit in front of you, or repeats already learned actions,
turn sideways or move around, so that your dog does not wrongly
anticipate what you want. We want your dog to think of new
things and start to problem solve for himself. This teaches
him how to learn
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Once a behaviour
is established and being reliably offered in response to your cue,
begin to gradually extinquish the click reward mark
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Only teach one
NEW behaviour in each session
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Click all actions
that are A LITTLE BIT like the action you want (when shaping a
behaviour)
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Finish each
session with some easier behaviours that your dog does well.
Big praise & fuss
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The first time
your dog offers the behaviour you are working for - give him a
jackpot reward!
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Be creative and
use your imagination, if something isn't working, ask yourself why?
Dont' automatically assume it's because your dog is being defiant or
stupid - he's not! Maybe the communication is not clear? Can
you break the exercise down into smaller chunks?
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HAVE FUN,
PRACTISE AND BE CONSISTENT!
Click Here to go to a comprehensive clicker training website with
heaps of info and some freebie video links to see how it's done.
Click Here
to got YouTube where, if you type in Clicker Training you can see some
of the phenomenal things that can be achieved using this positive
training technique.
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TEACHING
DOGS TO HAVE SELF CONTROL
SELF CONTROL – KEEP
ME CALM (for stressed /highly aroused dogs)
Some dogs simply lose the ability to calm down, they are unable to
settle and their base line of arousal has been raised to an almost
permanent state of excitement/stress. It is impossible for a dog in
this state to learn effectively, respond to commands reliably or react
sensibly to situations and experiences.
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1. |
Slip a lead on your dog and go to a quiet area where you can
sit comfortably |
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2. |
Give the dog a limited amount of lead to pull on (approx. 3
ft) |
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3. |
Allow the dog to pace, wander, stand, try to jump up, whine
or roll over |
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4. |
Ignore the dog completely – no eye contact, say nothing |
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5. |
Don’t allow the dog to yank your arm or let out any more
lead length |
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6. |
If the dog tries to jump up turn your face away and apply
gentle downward pressure on the lead |
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7. |
At some point the dog will lie down – count to 3 and bend
down to stroke him slowly along his back |
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8. |
Speak quietly and soothingly with a confident tone |
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9. |
He will most likely immediately get up and begin activities
again |
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10. |
Withdraw your attention immediately and ignore him again |
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11. |
He will most likely settle down much quicker this time –
repeat the procedure |
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12. |
Gradually increase the amount of time he will settle by
intermittently giving him the attention
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13. |
If he breaks position go back to the beginning |
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14. |
Once he will reliably remain calm – walks, training sessions
etc can commence |
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15. |
Being calm will earn him the activities he wants to enjoy |
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16. |
Being over excited will get him ignored |
SELF
CONTROL– Using Clicker Training
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1. |
Using medium level food treat hold it in an enclosed fist in
front of your dogs nose |
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2. |
Allow him to try to get the treat from you by
pushing/nibbling/licking |
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3. |
When he gives up (looks away / backs away) click and open
your hand for him to take the treat |
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4. |
No words are necessary at this stage |
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5. |
If the dog starts to get really pushy/bullying put the treat
away and ignore your dog |
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NB. If your dog becomes aggressive stop the training and
consult a canine behaviour consultant |
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6. |
Once the dog understands that he gets the treat when he
stops trying to take it introduce the cue |
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7. |
As you open your hand give the ‘take it’ cue for him to take
the treat |
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8. |
Repeat until behaviour is established and clicking can be
extinguished. |
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PUPPY OR RESCUE
DOG??
So you’ve decided to get a dog!
The next few
decisions you make will determine how successful your new
relationship will be. As with any partnership, if you get it wrong,
it can be disastrous, but if you get it right………. Aaah Heaven!
How to make the best choice!
Read on for help with considering :-
Puppy v Rescue Dog
Purebred v Mixed Breed
Choice of Breed (this can be a tuffie!)
Dog v Bitch
Small / Medium / Large
Owner - Dog Mismatch is the most common reason for
dogs ending up in rescue!!
PUPPIES
PRO'S :
Adorable, Cute, Funny, malleable, owners have
knowledge of every experience, easy to train, ability to choose a
specific breed of choice, Knowledge of parenting and temperaments of
parents, Expensive ~ anything from £400 - £1000!!
CON'S :
Housetraining, Chewing, Digging, Mouthing & Nipping, Jumping up,
Excessive Energy, Need a lot of time, Cannot be left alone for long
periods, must be extensively socialised to avoid problems ~ this
takes a lot of time and energy for the first 18 months,
RESCUE DOGS
PRO’s : Giving a second chance to a dog, In some
cases saving a life, Housebroken in most cases, Usually sleep
through the night straight away, No waiting to have to go on walks,
Immediately able to walk long distances (subject to health) What you
see is what you get, the size, personality, temperament and energy
levels of the dog have already developed, Can be very loving and
loyal
CON’s : Unknown history of the dog, possibility of
emotional scarring if dog has been abused, this can usually be
overcome but can take time and patience, Bad habits may have
developed which would need to be untrained and new ones trained to
replace them.
PUREBRED (PEDIGREE)
PRO’s : Ability to gain knowledge of the breed you
are choosing, Able to assess characteristic traits to decide if they
suit your lifestyle, Good breeding should ensure less health
problems (although this is rarely the case these days!)
CON’s : Selective breeding over the years has
interfered with temperaments, many come with specific health
problems, Show stock quality does not necessarily mean good
temperament or trainability, Cost a lot of money to buy.
MIXED BREED
PRO’s : Often more robust dogs, less health
problems, less reactive, calmer and easier to train, have no strong
overriding characteristics to deal with (ie German Shepherds are
Natural Guard Dogs) Less chance of inherited genetic ‘issues’, They
are One of a kind!
CON’s : Little knowledge of breed characteristics,
can be all shapes and sizes, have no particular ‘look’ about them,
DOG’S v BITCH’S
There's a lot of controversy when it comes to the
battle of the sexes. Some people are adamant that bitches are easier
to train and tend to be more loving. Whilst others will disagree,
stating that females are more independent and aloof. Males are said
to be more aggressive, but neutering can dramatically change their
nature, and if you do find yourself with an aggressive female, she
will often be far worse than a male!! Un-neutered dogs of both sexes
can always present problems. Males can wander off in search of
females in season and can be prone to becoming excellent escape
artists. Females may have phantom pregnancies and can be difficult
to manage during their season. It is best to seek specific advice on
the breed you are thinking of getting and consider a full analysis
of your lifestyle and how they are going to fit in. The bottom line
is ~ each individual dog is different, with it’s own characteristics
and personalities ~ just as we are!!
SMALL / MEDIUM / LARGE
This really is going to be dependant upon a lot of
other factors and is mostly an important consideration when you are
analysing your lifestyle.
Small : Can
be a bit less work, a bit less mess, generally have very big
characters and lots of energy, terriers can have large personal
space and a definitive idea of who plays with who and when!!
(depending on breed of course.)
Medium
: Medium sized breeds tend to be good all rounder's, Generally have
plenty of energy and need a lot of commitment to exercise, tend to
like busy lifestyles ~ getting out and about with the family as much
as possible.
Large : Many of the larger
breeds actually need less exercise than the medium, they tend to
suffer physical stress if over exercised and do better with several
smaller walks rather than fewer long ones. Obviously the larger the
body the more food it requires, although not always the case for the
more sedentary breeds. Large breeds take up a lot of space and need
larger houses to accommodate them, they are often unaware of their
size and can tend to knock over small toddlers around the home,
especially dogs between the ages of 6-18mths (the gangly
adolescent!)
Whatever choices you make, all dogs will progress and develop
depending on the way the are handled and trained by their owners, so
even if you choose a breed you feel guarantee’s you a ‘family pet’
with inconsistent ownership, lack of Socialisation and training, a
monster can still be created!!
CHOICE OF BREED
This area is too big to cover in this newsletter. It
is however essential that you choose the right breed for your
circumstances. For further information on breed characteristics
visit the Purchase Guidance
Pages of the website or
give me a call on 0845 257 9501.
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RECOMMENDED READING
& PRESENTS FOR DOG LOVERS!
The following are a selection of
books that I recommend regularly to clients for training and
behavioural purposes. The insight and information provided in these
books, when applied will have a phenomenal effect on the
relationship you have with your dog and how well he responds to you
and your education of him.
I have included a brief
description of each book and where you can obtain it from, for those
of you with tight budgets I highly recommend Amazon’s used books
marketplace. Many of my books have come via these suppliers at
a hugely reduced cost, many of them still look brand new!! If you
encounter any difficulties getting hold of any of these books,
please email me on michelle@tru-nature.co.uk and I will assist where
possible.
If there is a particular subject or
aspect of dog training or behaviour you would like to gain further
knowledge of, please feel free to get in touch and I will be happy
to recommend other publications relating to your specific topic.
The Culture Clash
~ Jean Donaldson (Amazon)
~ Understanding Dogs Better:
A book offering an exciting new perspective on the relationship
between man and dog. Extremely thought provoking and
offers practical realistic aspects of behaviour and training based
on research and extensive experience of working with and training
dogs.
The Other End of the
Leash ~ Patricia McConnell (Amazon) ~
Understanding Dogs Better:
This book reveals a revolutionary new perspective on our
relationship with dogs, how they might interpret our behaviour as
well as essential advice on how to interact more effectively with
your dog
Dominance Fact or
Fiction ~ Barry Eaton ( www.dog-dominance.co.uk) ~
Interesting Insight into ‘pack rules’ or the ‘dominance theory’:
For those of you who are or have been sold on the dominance theory
that has overshadowed dogs and there relationships with their owners
for many years now, this little book may offer you an alternative
perspective to consider and apply to your relationship with your
dog.
Clicking with your Dog
~ Peggy Tillman (Amazon) ~
Clicker Training :
An easy step by step book about teaching yourself and your dog
clicker training. Illustrated and well explained, this will
get you clicking and your dog responding quickly and enjoyably!
The Dog’s Mind ~
Bruce Fogle (Amazon) ~
Technical Canine Understanding:
This book is hugely informational, it is written in a more technical
way and provides a deep understanding of how dogs perceive the world
around them, how they see, hear, learn and relate to their owners,
why they suffer from stress and how it can be coped with and much
more!!
Lets Play with our dog
~ Dee Woodcock (www.crosskeysbooks.com)
~
Great for Winter Games indoors!!! :
Practical and realistic advice on a whole range of games to play
with your dog. It’s easy, it’s fun and your dog will love you for
it!!
Diary of a Dotty Dog
Doctor ~ John Fisher (Amazon) ~
Understanding dogs better:
A delightlful book
written entirely from case studies of the late John Fisher.
Humurous, enlightening, and a very enjoyable yet still informational
read on the aspects of dogs, their behaviour and how to improve your
relationship with them.
On Talking Terms with
Dogs - Calming Signals ~ Turid Rugaas (Amazon) ~
Reading Canine Body Language & Communication Signals :
Every dog needs his human to read this book!!!! A superb book
that explains the intricate nuances of canine communication helping
us to understand them better and communicate back to them more
effectively. This book will help anyone have a deeper and more
meaningful relationship with their dog.
Stress in Dogs ~
Scholz & von Rheinhardt ~ (Amazon) ~
How Dogs show Stress & What you can do about it:
This book can improve the lives of dogs as well as humans with a
sound approach to resolving stress-related problems. If you
think your dog does not suffer from stress……… you might find this
book very interesting. Stress is most often the cause behind
many behavioural problems.
Bones Would Rain From
the Sky ~ Suzanne Clothier (Amazon)
A fantastic book!! ~ Improving your
relationship with your dog:
‘If dog’s could pray, they would ask that people read this
thoughtful and warmhearted book. It demonstrates how empathy,
respect (and a little wry humour) can unleash the untapped potential
of the Human—Canine bond.
Don't Shoot the Dog
~ Karen Pryor (Amazon)
~ Improving your relationship with
your dog:
The principles of the revolutionary "clicker training" method. Eight
methods of ending undesirable habits - from furniture-clawing cats
to sloppy room-mates. The ten laws of "shaping" behaviour - for
results without strain or pain through "affection training". Tips
for house-training the dog, improving your tennis game, or dealing
with an impossible teenager. Explorations of exciting new uses for
reinforcement training.
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Winter
Games to Play with your Dogs
Well, it’s that
time again, it’s wet, it’s muddy, it’s cold ...............
IT’S WINTER!!
Fear
not, this month’s article is full of ideas for games and things you
can do with your dogs, without spending too much time outside!
Now don’t get me wrong, our dogs need their exercise, just as we
do, but for those days, when you’ve already been out once and got
soaked, the wind is howling, the rain is pouring and you just can’t
face another trek into the weather (you know the days I mean!) a
good dose of one-one bonding with a large measure of mental
stimulation can provide our dogs with some excellent ‘brain
exercise’ which can quite often prove more tiring than the physical
stuff.
Hide & Seek ~
The simplest things are often the best, one of my (and my dogs
fave’s) a good ole fashioned game of hide & seek. You can get the
human members of the household to hide whilst you keep the dog in
one room, then release him off to find them, they can call him to
give him a clue, especially if he’s never played this before, once
he gets the hang of the game, try not calling him to make it harder.
This is a fantastic game to play with the kids, everyone loves it
and ends up falling around in giggles Remember, when the dog
discovers you, have a big praise party, so he finds it fabulous fun
to find the ‘prize’ you could reward him with a yummy treat of
favourite game.
Alternatively you could hide your dogs favourite toy, then let him
out and encourage him to find it, again if he’s never played the
game he might need a bit of help to start with but he will quickly
get the idea. As soon as he finds the toy, heap on the praise, and
have a game with the toy he has found. If you have multiple dogs in
the house, (like mine) this game then becomes a race too, who can
find it first!! (I always make sure everyone wins an equal number of
times, don’t want any tantrums!!)
Fetch ~ The big fave with most dogs, but not all dogs naturally want to
fetch and need to be taught and encouraged to do so. Remember to
try lots of different toys for this game if your dog is not a
natural retriever, some dogs prefer particular toys over others, for
instance, when we play this indoors, my dog would much prefer to
fetch a teddy than a ball. If your dog has never played this game,
or seems reluctant to pick things up, most dogs will prefer
something soft to start with. Clicker training can be highly
effective for training a dog to hold things and fetch them.
Name that Toy ~ This is a fun game to play, and also a cool trick to show friends
and family. Start by choosing just one of your dog’s favourite
toys, and as you show it to him, give it a name, teddy, kong, ball
etc. Toss the toy a short distance away and ask him to ‘fetch
teddy’. If he runs to grab it praise him and treat him, even if he
doesn’t bring it back to start with. Repeat this many times until
you are sure he understands, then toss teddy into a pile of other
toys and practise it this way, he has to choose teddy over all the
others. Once he can do this reliable, start teaching the names of
other toys in the same way. This game can lead in nicely to………
Tidy up your toys ~ Teach your dog to fetch his toys and put them in a box or basket to
tidy them up. Again this is a great game for him to play, very
stimulating, great fun and also useful!! Your dog will love being
told how clever he is! Once you have taught your dog to tidy up his
toys, you can then transfer this learning to other things that could
be useful, tidy up the rubbish, tidy up the clothes etc. Once your
dog is reliably returning to you with his named toy, have a basket
or box in your hand as he brings it back and hold it out for him to
drop the toy into, click and treat him for getting it right and he
will quickly realise what you are asking him to do. Practise
practise until he is reliably bringing named toys and dropping in
the box to get his reward!!
Scent
Discrimination ~ This is a great game for all dogs but especially those who ‘love to
sniff everything’. Great mental stimulation for your dog and
something that could turn out to be very useful one day if you drop
your keys in the field and you want your dog to help you find
them!!! I have done this……… I hadn’t taught my dog to scent at the
time tho :-(
If you would like further info on how to
play or teach your dog
any of the above games or any other games, please
click here
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THE
DOMINANCE THEORY
True or False?
Have you heard of these rules?
Always eat before your dog
Never let your dog on the sofa
Always remove items from your dog that he values
Never allow your dog to go through a door ahead
of you
Always make your dog move if he is in the way
Have you ever applied these rules? With how much
success? Read on to further investigate
the truths behind the dominance theory and pack rules….............
There is obviously much more to this topic than can be covered in
this short article, more material will be posted on the website
shortly for those interested.
The theory of ‘pack rules’ was introduced during the
1980’s and used as an explanation for the motives behind canine
behaviour, through the study of wolf behaviour. The findings of
these studies were then published as methods of training and
behaviour modification for dogs displaying signs of ‘dominance’.
They provided information on how to be the ‘alpha male’ ensuring
your pet dog would never challenge for leadership of the ‘pack’.
There are now more modern day views that offer alternative
perspectives on how and why a dog behaves and reacts to it’s
environment in the way that it does. Research supports the theory
that truly wild wolves do not even exhibit the theory of ‘pack
rules’.
The studies of the hierarchical structure and social
bonds are what form the basis of the pack rules theory, as it has
been applied to domesticated dogs. This research explained the alpha
male role within the pack structure, how they exhibit and maintain
their dominance and how the rest of the pack fit into the ‘pecking’
order. It explains that the alpha male, is the strongest animal in
the pack, controls the entrance/exit to the pack sleeping areas and
will lead the hunt. When a kill has been made the alpha male will
eat first, and so a structure of dominance and submission exists
within the group, which is maintained by the ‘pack rules’.
In order to deal with these dominant behavioural
traits, people were advised to look out for dogs that were pushing
through doorways in front of people, pulling on the lead, climbing
on the furniture, sitting at the top of the stairs or in doorways,
rushing down the stairs in front of people and consistently guarding
possessions and resources. The owners were then advised to follow
strict ‘dominant’ characteristic themselves to de-rank the dog
within the ‘pack’. Things such as slamming doors on noses of dog’s
trying to rush through first, standing or sitting in their bed,
ignoring them at every opportunity, making them move if they were in
the way, preventing them from sleeping anywhere other than on the
floor and ensuring that no dog ate a meal before the family had
eaten.
When applied many of these techniques failed to work
and often made the situation worse as the dog became more confused
by the fact that the rules kept changing. When perceived from a
different angle, surely many if not all these behaviours can be
attributed to a lack of consistent education, much like a child that
has never been taught table manners, would probably eat with his
fingers!
The main problem with the theory is that much of the
research it is based on was carried out on artificial captive packs
of wolves. These groups would not exhibit a true pack like
behaviour. The other more obvious problem is that we are not dogs,
how can we possibly believe that another species lives with us, in
the same manner as he would live with his own kind? We are not able
to speak to them in their own language, so surely the best we can
hope to achieve is to be able to understand them (us being the more
intelligent species supposedly) and find ways to communicate our
wishes to them in ways which they can understand.
Many aggressive displays by dogs were explained away
by the ‘dominance theory’ when in fact, the alpha male in a pack of
truly wild wolves, very rarely displays any aggressive behaviour at
all? It seems that the study of wolf behaviour has relevance to dog
behaviour in that it helps us to recognise and understand the
behaviours as individual concepts and as intra-species
communication. It is without a doubt that we form strong social
attachments but we are not a pack.
The rituals, body language, facial expressions,
scent communications and behavioural nuances which dogs are able to
communicate between each other are difficult for us to either
express or interpret, purely because we are not canine. So the
problem of so called ‘dominant’ behaviour seems to require a
different explanation, in order to be accurately identified and put
into context within the mixed species environment our dogs live in.
The absence of consistent guidance & parenting from the human
half of the relationship allows confusion to creep in and
un-educated choices to be made by animals lacking the capacity to
read minds!
Like humans, every dog is different, they each have
different personalities, different characteristics, some are more
timid than others, some more confident and quick to take advantage
of opportunities. Every single canine behaviour problem will require
a different approach based on the breed of dog, the personality, the
individual characteristic traits, the owners personality and
character, the lifestyle of both the owner and the dog etc etc.
There is much more to consider regarding the cause of behaviour than
simply dominance or submission, and the easiest place to start, is
to learn how to view the individuality of the situation from the
dog’s perspective, rather than assuming he is constantly trying to
get one up on his owner or take over the household!
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ALL ABOUT
CLICKER TRAINING
What is it?
Why use it?
How does it work?
What’s so good about it?
Clicker training is an effective, safe and kind
way to teach your dog any behaviour!!
Even Children can train Puppies and Dogs using
Clicker Training!
What is Clicker Training? ~
Desirable behaviour
is marked by using a "clicker," a mechanical device that makes a
short, distinct "click" sound which tells your dog exactly when
they're doing the right thing. This clear form of communication,
combined with positive reinforcement, (a reward) is an effective,
safe, and humane way to teach any animal any behaviour
that it is physically and mentally capable of doing.
When we use clicker training we look for situations
that encourage the dog to teach themselves what to do. We all
remember the self taught lessons for life! The difference between an
animal that behaves with purpose, rather than by habit, is vast.
Clicker trained animals try to learn new behaviours. They remember
behaviours even years later because they were aware of them as they
learned them, rather than acquiring them without awareness or by
force.
This is a process which will enhance and deepen your
relationship with your dog, through greater understanding, good
communication and with absolute trust. Dogs are very, very good
learners for the whole of their lives. They welcome learning, relish
problem solving and finish satisfied happy dogs.
Why use a Clicker? ~ With the click, a trainer
can precisely “mark” behaviour so that the animal knows exactly what
it was doing at the point it earned a reward. That’s why clicker
trainers call the click an “event marker.” The click also bridges or
connects the behaviour and its reward, and so is also called a
“bridging signal.”
How does Clicker Training Work? ~ The trainer
clicks at the moment the behaviour occurs: The dog sits, the trainer
clicks simultaneously. Clicking is like taking a picture of the
behaviour the trainer wishes to reinforce. After “taking the
picture,” the trainer gives the animal something it likes, usually a
small piece of food but sometimes play, petting, or other rewards.
Very soon (sometimes within two or three clicks), an
animal will associate the sound of the click with something it
likes: the reward. Since it wishes to repeat that pleasurable
experience, it will repeat the action it was doing when it heard the
click. Any behaviour can be trained with any animal following these
three simple steps:
Get the behaviour.
Mark the behaviour.
Reinforce the behaviour
Asking for the Behaviours? ~
Clicker trainers differ from traditional trainers in
that they wait until the behaviour is well understood by the animal
before using a verbal command or “cue.” A cue is the name of a
behaviour, such as “sit,” or a hand signal.
Until the Dog knows what the behaviour is, any name
for it would be meaningless! eg: ask an untrained dog to sit, he
will look blankly at you, teach him to sit first, then associate the
verbal cue ‘sit’, with the behaviour you have taught and voila!!
Your dog understands your cue and will respond with sitting
behaviour.
Do you have to forever Click & Treat? ~ Once a
behaviour is learned and on cue, there’s usually no need for further
clicks, as the dog now understands the behaviour. Clicker trainers
can maintain the behaviour by replacing specially good treats with
occasional and less intensive rewards including a pat or praise.
Learned cues and behaviours are also maintained by real-life
rewards: for example sitting quietly at the door is rewarded by
opening the door so that the dog can have a walk. Clicker trainers
then save clicks and treats for the next new thing they want to
train.
What's Good About Clicker Training? ~
The clicker lets you separate the behaviour
(leaving the rabbit chase) from the reward, (arriving back with
you for a Big Hug).
The clicker works the same for everybody in the
family
The clicker lets us teach the dogs tricks that
we never thought we could - ‘sleepy’ (place your chin on the
floor and look at me in a very sad way)
The clicker works for EVERY dog. It is science,
not myth or legend.
In fact it works for every animal, including
fish, rats, dolphins, killer whales, horses, pigs, sheep (how
did you think they trained all the sheep in “Babe”?).
We say clicker training is simple, but not easy.
The principle is simple, using it with full efficiency and
effectiveness can take time to learn ... but it is a great
learning journey, one of the best you will ever travel.
Clicker Training clicks itself. This method is
SO effective the dogs get it super quick, and you can have a
sense of achievement very, very quickly. The more you learn, the
more you teach which builds a desire to learn and teach more!
LINKS TO CLICKER TRAINING SITES
www.clickandtreat.com
www.clickerzoneuk.co.uk
www.clickersolutions.com
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Why you
should PROOF TRAIN your dog? Does YOUR Dog Do any of These While You are out
Walking??
Not come back when called
Run over to other dogs
Run over to people
Interrupt children playing games
Chase Bicycles
Chase Small Furry Animals
Chase Joggers
Ignore you
Fail to respond to the simplest commands
If they do……… you are not alone!
Many owners experience exactly these problems on a daily basis with
their pets, at best it’s an annoying situation, at worst potentially
dangerous and even life threatening for your dog. Read on for advice and
information on why this happens and how to go about finding a
solution...........
Dogs are phenomenally intelligent and have the ability to associate
many verbal and visual cues with behaviours we would like them to
perform, why then, do they sometimes appear to ‘not understand’ or be
’deaf’? Dog’s learn best when we teach them gradually and consistently,
if we start increasing distractions and changing the criteria of desired
responses before they clearly understand what we want them to do, they
are doomed to fail.
By following a structured process of education, we can automate
responses and ‘training’ becomes so effective our dogs react
AUTOMATICALLY without hesitation. Any training or behaviour can be
taught using this structured process of learning which ensures
achievement of the best results, in the absence of this process, dog’s
still learn, but it seems less reliable and has a tendency to break down
when we need it most!
When we educate our children, it is an ongoing process over many
years, things have to be repeated over and over and we have to be
consistent so they are clear of where their boundaries are. It is the
same for our dogs, it is not a few quick training sessions when the dog
arrives, it is a persistent approach that takes place all the time,
during training sessions and within everyday life situations.
The most effective way to improve reliability and response from your
dog is to ‘proof’ it, this means teaching the dog to respond to your
cue’s no matter what challenging distractions are taking place. This can
only be achieved by following a structured training approach, so your
dog learns in stages and does not progress on to the next stage until he
is 100% perfect at each one. For example, if your dog won’t return to
you when called in the familiarity of your home or garden, there is no
way he is going to do it when you get him out in the big wide world full
of wonderful smells, sights and sounds!!
We start with the easiest lessons, in the least distracting
situations and progress in stages. Using only positive reinforcement
methods dog’s learn to ignore the distractions, choosing to
remain interactive with their owners instead.
For further assistance with ‘proofing’ your dogs reliability please
visit other areas of the website where you can find details of our Proof Training
Workshops and training classes, Training Worksheet and instantly
downloadable informational e-books. The Tru Nature Training Journal provides written
details and a record card to help you organise your dog’s training in
the most effective way. See the dog shop for purchase details.
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LIVING WITH DOGS
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| CONSISTENCY IS ORDER OF THE DAY |
Always use the same word for the same behaviour - Be
clear what he is allowed to do/not allowed to do - Be clear
where he is allowed to go/not allowed to go -
Don't keep
moving the goal posts, this is why dogs get confused, and when
they get confused - voila! you have problems! |
| DOGS NEEDS ARE ACTUALLY QUITE SIMPLE |
All a dog really needs is Adequate and Well Balanced Food -
Fresh Water - Warmth - Shelter - Adequate Attention - Adequate
Affection - Consistent Boundaries - Adequate Education in
Acceptable Behaviour. - Physical Exercise and Mental
Stimulation. Most often when owners are having
problems with their dogs, one of these areas is lacking? |
| IT'S EASIER TO TEACH THEM TO DO - THAN TO
DON'T |
If your dog is doing something you don't want him to, you
may find it easier to replace the unwanted behaviour with
something else that is more acceptable to you, by using operant
conditioning techniques and rewarding ONLY those behaviours you
want, you should be able to re-condition your dog to give an
alternate response, providing you make it worth his while!!
Teach him something you DO want him to do rather than
TRYING to STOP him doing something you don't want him to do.
(it works with children too!) |
| DOGS DO WHAT WORKS! IT'S THAT SIMPLE |
Dog behaviour is a constant experiment of what happens if I
do this, what happens if I do that........ if something good
happens for the dog - hey presto that behaviour is likely to get
repeated.............. if nothing happens - what's the point?
Waste of time.
Example :- Why don't dogs sit all day staring at fridges? They
know they are full of yummy things to eat......... because
nothing happens when they stare at the fridge! Why do dogs chase
small furry creatures........ because they run, because it's
fun, because it gives them a rush...... It's self rewarding!
(and because nobody has given them an alternative that is more
rewarding?) |
| PROBLEM BEHAVIOURS ARE DOG BEHAVIOURS |
Most of the behavioural problems we encounter are Dogs
being Dogs Doing What Dogs Do! except from our point of
view they are doing it at inappropriate times, or too much, or
not enough, or in the wrong place, or not the way we want them
to.........WHY? Probably because we haven't taught
them any other way? |
| TRAINING TIME IS ALL THE TIME |
If you are not teaching your dog, then his environment will
be and you can bet it won't be teaching him the things you would
like it to! Your sofa will reward him for laying on
it - the garbage will reward him with disgusting tasty treats if
he rummages through it - chewing the table leg when you go out
rewards him because he feels anxious and chewing something helps
him to relax - children reward him when he sits near the dining
table and they drop bits of their dinner on the floor - small
furry creatures reward him by running when they see him.
Your dog will learn, with or without you, so it makes sense
to be the one in control of the environment? |
| OUR RULES MAKE NO SENSE TO DOGS! |
Taken from Jean Donaldson's 'The Culture Clash'
(Recommended Reading) Virtually all natural dog behaviours
chewing, barking, rough play, chasing moving objects, jumping up
to greet, settling minor disputes with threat displays,
establishing contact with strange dogs, guarding resources,
leaning into steady pressure against their chests or necks,
urinating on porous surfaces like carpets, defending themselves
from perceived threat - are considered by humans to be behaviour
problems. The rules which seem so obvious to us make absolutely
no sense to dogs? |
THE DOG'S
PERSPECTIVE! ~
DOGS SEE WHAT
DOGS SEE
|
HUMANS SEE |
DOGS SEE |
| A Dining Table |
A large piece of wood - Very chewable |
| A Three Seater Sofa |
A very comfy place to sleep - Also very
chewable |
| The Neighbours Cat |
An Excellent Source for a Chasing Game |
| A Landscaped Garden |
A Playground with things to Dig & Eat &
Allsorts |
| Joggers and Cyclists |
More Great Chasing Games |
| A Childs Recorder from School |
A Stick to chew & Play With |
| A toilet |
A Source of Drinking Water |
| A Carpeted Room |
An absorbent surface to urinate on |
| A Rubbish Bin |
An excellent place to find yummy stuff to
eat |
| A Childs Soft Toy |
A Dog's Soft Toy |
| A Pair of Shoes |
A lovely smelly chewable object |
SOCIALISATION & HABITUATION
| Socialisation = |
Socialisation is the process whereby an animal
learns how to recognise and interact with the species with which
it lives. In the wild this is likely to be limited to the
animal’s own species, but for the domestic dog it includes other
species such as man, cats, horses, sheep, rabbits etc. By
learning how to interact with these the socialised dog develops
communication skills which enable it to recognise, amongst other
things, whether or not it is being threatened and how to
recognise and respond to the intentions of others. |
| Habituation = |
The process of familiarising a puppy with his environment
and teaching him to disregard everyday encounters with such
things as traffic, bicycles, household appliances, travelling in
vehicles and as many environmental experiences as you can think
of so that he becomes accustomed to these non-threatening events
and learns that they are of no consequence to him. |
| Why is it so Important? |
A few short weeks of intense concentrated repeated exposures
to as many people, places and situations as possible will help
to ensure a puppy grows up to be confident, outgoing, well
balanced and able to cope with whatever life throws at him. By
introducing a puppy as young as possible to as many experiences
as possible, taking care that each experience is pleasant and
rewarding you are providing him with the basic education that he
will be able to draw upon for the rest of his life.
There is a
sensitive period of development in which socialisation and
habituation must occur and be properly completed if the dog is
not to grow up with problems. The degree of socialisation and
habituation a dog receives will reflect proportionately in the
extent of any problems he displays. Accordingly, a dog that has
had no experience of a specific stimulus (men, children,
other dogs, cats, horses, traffic, cyclists) at the completion
of the sensitive period will always be fearful of it; a
dog that has had some exposure, but not sufficient, will be
better adjusted, although not entirely sound; and a dog that has
had adequate experience of the stimulus in the sensitive period
will grow up to be "bomb proof". Dogs that grow up to be
fearful because they have been subjected to a lack of adequate
socialisation and habituation can be improved by counter
conditioning programmes, but the maxim 'prevention is better
than cure' was never more applicable than the first few
weeks of a domestic dog's life.
In one year out of approx. 800 dogs treated for behavioural problems
- 79 of them, that’s 10%, had problems of fearfulness towards
people or the environment due to a lack of early socialisation
or habituation and a further 5% were incapable of relating to
other dogs, again due to a lack of early socialisation. |
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STRESS
IN DOGS
Stress is something that is
common among dogs, as it is among humans, and how we recognise
that stress and subsequently deal with the circumstances will
determine how well we are able to prevent, control or rectify
the situation. Stress is brought about by the dog being in a
situation in which he feels unable to cope, acceptable levels of
stress are present in a dogs life all the time and these are
necessary to stimulate and encourage personal growth and
development, but when these challenges or demands become
constant and unbearable, this is when stress becomes a problem
and the body reacts in a way that makes it difficult for the
animal to cope with his experience until such measures are taken
to reduce the effects.
As with humans, each dog
dependant upon its genetic make up, environmental influences and
overall confidence will react to stress in different ways and at
different levels. Something that may cause one dog to become
stressed would not necessarily another, they each have their own
stress threshold which is the upper point at which a situation
or experience exceeds a dogs ability to cope.
It is also comparable
between humans and canines that stress can be cumulative, so
when experiencing stressful situations, if ‘time out’ cannot be
taken whereby it is possible to be completely removed from the
stressful experience to regain calm, relax and rest the brain
and nervous system, it is possible that the stress levels will
keep on rising until such point as the person or animal can no
longer cope with even the simplest of situations.
A dog can exhibit signs of
becoming uncomfortable and stressed in a variety of situations
and will convey this emotional message by a combination of
signals involving body language and sometimes vocalisations. If
these signals go unnoticed then it is possible that the dogs
stress threshold will be exceeded and he will begin exhibiting
signs of a ‘stress response’ which is a chemical imbalance
caused by the physical changes taking place in the brain when
the animal becomes over stressed. These responses can either be
acute (sudden stressful reaction) or chronic
(maintaining a state of stress for a prolonged period of time).
In both cases the behaviour of the dog will be altered due to
the chemical changes within his nervous system which in turn
alter his ability to recall from memory, solve problems
efficiently and rationalise situations, he may become
oversensitive to pain, over reactive to situations and unable to
experience rewards or pleasure.
It is not uncommon to find
stress behind a great number of behaviour problems encountered
in dogs and if we are unaware of how to diagnose the behaviour
accurately we will never really be able to get to the crux of
the problem and help both the owner and the dog in the most
effective way, with the most compassionate modifications in
order to achieve the desired outcome without causing further
stress or discomfort to the dog.
It is
known through research that when a dog becomes highly stressed
they are unable to think straight, this is not a conscious
choice but as a result of neurochemical reactions in the brain
over which they have no control.
The reasons for a dog
becoming stressed are very individual to each dog and as such
every case must be examined within its own context. Every dog
will be different physically and mentally, the environment they
live in and the social interactions they have, will never be the
same between animals. All these aspects need to be taken into
consideration when deciding what may or may not ‘stress out’ a
dog. Some causes to consider maybe socially related, owner
aggression, rough handling, lead jerking, forcing him into
positions and even aggression between other human members of the
household, even if the aggression is not directed at the dog
many of them will feel intensely uncomfortable and stressed in
an argumentative household.
BELOW ARE SOME
EXAMPLES OF THINGS THAT CAN CAUSE STRESS AND SOME OF THE SIGNS A
DOG DISPLAYS WHEN HE IS FEELING STRESSED.
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