TRU-NATURE

 

Home Page  Behaviour Consultations  Training Classes  Workshops  The Dog Shop

Safety Around Dogs for Kids  News & Events  Fun & Online Games  Links

 

TRU NATURE'S DOG TRAINING ARTICLES

Copyright © 2008 by Michelle Masters

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED: No part of these articles may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing from the copyright owner.  Requests for permission should be addressed to Michelle Masters, Tru Nature, Weybridge Farmhouse, Stambourne Road, Great Yeldham, Halsted, Essex. CO9 4RB

 

ARTICLE LIST

Click on the article title below to be taken directly to that Article.

  1. The Effects of Diet on Behaviour

  2. General Training Tips

  3. Rules of Clicker Training

  4. Teaching Self Control

  5. Puppy or Rescue DOG?

  6. Recommended Reading

  7. Winter Games to Play

  8. The Dominance Theory or 'Pack Rules - True or False

  9. An Introduction to Clicker Training

  10. Why Proof Train your Dog

  11. FREE Puppy Socialisation Guide

  12. Living with Dogs - What does it look like to them?

  13. The Dog's Perspective

  14. Socialisation

  15. Stress and it's effect on your dog's behaviour

  16. Is it a question of Dominance?

  17. The Importance of play & Some Games your dog may Enjoy

  18. Can We Stop the Puppy Farms?

 

 

 

 

 

THE EFFECTS OF DIET ON BEHAVIOUR

Do you recognise any of these symptoms?

  • Hyperactivity
  • Lethargy
  • Excessive Drinking
  • Excessive Scratching
  • Eating Grass
  • Coprophagia
  • Digestive Problems
  • Grumpy / Snappy
  • Overly Anxious / Stressed
  • Then your dog could be suffering from poor nutrition or an imbalanced diet. Read on to find out more about the effects of your dog’s diet on his behaviour……..

    It is common to find many people who suffer allergies or reactions from eating certain types of food and drinks. Modern medicine has developed significantly to realise that the chemicals used to produce many processed foods and the ingredients used to preserve them, can have considerable effects on the human body, mind and behaviour. This is also relevant for dogs and is an important concern when dealing with behaviour problems.

    It has been found by veterinary surgeons and leading behaviourists that diet-related allergies definitely have an affect on the behaviour of dogs, these consequences are very individual to each dog but there has not been enough significant research carried out to suggest that any specific ingredients have detrimental effects on behaviour.

    The influence of diet on behaviour can be momentous or in addition to a larger underlying cause. In some cases where the diet is particularly poor or inappropriately balanced, problem behaviours can disappear simply through altering the nutritional balance of the diet, but in many cases an adjustment to the dogs nutritional intake can be very effective when used in conjunction with behaviour modification techniques and training.

    It is essential when considering a dogs diet that daily energy needs are taken into account, it can be an easy mistake to provide a high energy diet, believing it to be a good quality diet, to a pet that only gets a small amount of exercise each day. It’s a little like feeding a bucket of oats (a high energy releasing food) to a horse, and then expecting it to stand calmly in a stable for the next 24 hours.

    Points that you must consider when calculating feeding levels and types of food to choose, are things such as the size of the dog, whether it is a puppy, average age or elderly dog, the general health and current weight and the levels of exercise the dog receives. This will ensure the provision of an adequately balanced and appropriate level of feeding. Generally if diet is a contributing factor to behavioural problems it is most often because there is an imbalance. It is commonly thought that high protein diets are bad and can be the cause of hyperactive behaviours, and whilst this can be the case, it is just as important to ensure that the diet is nutritionally balanced to suit the individual dog’s requirements and that the amount of food being given, is suitable for the dog’s lifestyle. You wouldn’t feed the diet of an Olympic athlete to an office worker who only exercised once a week when he played football with his son at the weekend, it works the same way for dogs!!

    Some indicators of possible diet related behaviour may be excessive drinking, excessive itching and scratching especially at the top of the tail, eating grass, fibre based destructive tendencies such as toilet rolls and tissues, coprophagia (eating faeces) digestive problems (constipation or diarrhea) allergic reactions, flatulence, inconsistent motions and increased or decreased activity levels. These behaviours individually are not necessarily indicative of a diet problem and can be present for many other reasons, however the more of these behaviours present, the more likely a diet deficiency should be considered.

    There are now a vast number of manufactured dog foods available to pet owners and many of these are produced with sales in mind as opposed to canine health and nutrition. They are manufactured to appeal to the owners by looking appetising and colourful in order to increase trade. Unless pet owners are knowledgeable in correctly analysing the content of the food, it is likely they won’t even know whether it contains a good balance for the needs of their dog and his lifestyle.

    There is much controversy surrounding the subject of manufactured dog foods, and whether they are actually healthy for our dogs, or whether they in fact contain many unhealthy, unnatural ingredients. It has become increasingly common over recent years for diet to have an undeniably extensive effect on the behaviour of so called ‘problem dogs’. I would advise any owner who is remotely interested in what they are actually feeding their dogs, to investigate thoroughly the ingredients and manufacturing process that produces the dog foods they buy.

     

    GENERAL TRAINING TIPS

    1.

    Always keep training sessions short. 

     

    Puppies need only 5 minutes at a time

     

    Older dogs can do 10-15 minute sessions but will also benefit from lots of short 5 minute ones (Utilise those advert breaks!)

     

    It is better to do more short sessions than one long one

    2.

    When using food as your reward in training sessions, always train just before meal times (so the dog is actually hungry)

    3.

    Rewards

     

    Know what motivates your dog food / toys / praise

     

    The amount and quality effects behaviour  (dog will work harder for bigger/tastier rewards)

     

    Variety – Use a variety of food / toys / praise rewards to keep training interesting and maintain motivation

     

    Low value rewards = normal feed nuggets / pat on the head

     

    Medium value rewards = Cheese / hot dogs / packet treats / fuss / vocal praise / toys

     

    High value rewards (jackpots) – Chicken / Sausage / Liver Cake / favourite game or toy / big fuss / excited vocal praise

    4.

    Distractions

     

    When training new behaviours always begin in low distraction surroundings

     

    Increase distraction levels once the behaviour is established

     

    Increase to maximum distraction and ensure behaviour is 100% at this level  = reliability of performance in any circumstance

    5.

    Always end your training sessions on a good note

     

    If a session is not going well, go back to a behaviour the dog can do well and finish it there

    6.

    Always set up training sessions for success

    7.

    Reward the things you like – ignore the things you don’t like

    8.

    Training should always be fun!

    9.

    Avoid training sessions if your dog/puppy is tired

    10.

    Punishment will result in stress = a stressed dog is unable to learn effectively

    11.

    Always use short clear commands/cues – Use exactly the same word each time

    12.

    Consistency is paramount in dog training – they can easily be confused if you keep moving the goal posts? = Stress

    13.

    Never embark upon a training session if you are in bad mood

    14.

    Persistence and Patience – remember how it feels to learn/understand ESPECIALLY when you don’t speak the language!

    15.

    Use calm, authoritative tones when issuing commands/cues – shouting can stress and confuse dogs and is not necessary

    16.

    Issue commands/ cues only once – If the dog does not respond find out why don’t keep repeating the command

     

     

    RULES OF CLICKER TRAINING

    Clicker Training has proven to improve the dog/owner relationship by helping dogs that have a tendency to find the environment very rewarding, to focus their attention back onto their owners.  It is fast, effective and long lasting.  It is also kind and enjoyable.

     Clicker Training is an effective method of communicating with dogs in a consistent way, which helps them to learn quicker and understand more clearly what we are asking them to ach

    • The click needs to be associated (charged) with a reward (treats/praise etc) before you start

    • Never Click Close to your dogs ears (try it on yourself!!! L )

    • Only click ONCE for each action

    • Do not multiple click as a special reward for a great response - one click + multiple treats = Jackpot reward

    • Don't lie with the clicker. If you click, even at the wrong time, always treat

    • The timing of the click is very important. Practise away from your dog if necessary

    • Use the click to mark behaviour you do want but also mark the absence of behaviour you don't want

    • Once the behaviour is established, ask for two before clicking and treating.  Always praise your dog for correct responses.

    • Keep practice sessions short. 

    • Reward the click at the start of each session

    • Do not reduce the food rewards too quickly

    • When the behaviour/action is being offered reliably, introduce a cue word/visual signal, at the same time as your dog performs the behaviour.

    • Allow your dog to move away, around and then come back during a session.  Do not pressure your dog to do what you want.  If in doubt - STOP.

    • If your dog tends to just sit in front of you, or repeats already learned actions, turn sideways or move around, so that your dog does not wrongly anticipate what you want.  We want your dog to think of new things and start to problem solve for himself.  This teaches him how to learn

    • Once a behaviour is established and being reliably offered in response to your cue, begin to gradually extinquish the click reward mark

    • Only teach one NEW behaviour in each session

    • Click all actions that are A LITTLE BIT like the action you want (when shaping a behaviour)

    • Finish each session with some easier behaviours that your dog does well.  Big praise & fuss

    • The first time your dog offers the behaviour you are working for - give him a jackpot reward!

    • Be creative and use your imagination, if something isn't working, ask yourself why? Dont' automatically assume it's because your dog is being defiant or stupid - he's not!  Maybe the communication is not clear? Can you break the exercise down into smaller chunks?

    • HAVE FUN, PRACTISE AND BE CONSISTENT!

     

    Click Here to go to a comprehensive clicker training website with heaps of info and some freebie video links to see how it's done.

    Click Here to got YouTube where, if you type in Clicker Training you can see some of the phenomenal things that can be achieved using this positive training technique.

     

     

     

     TEACHING DOGS TO HAVE SELF CONTROL

    SELF CONTROL – KEEP ME CALM (for stressed /highly aroused dogs)

    Some dogs simply lose the ability to calm down, they are unable to settle and their base line of arousal has been raised to an almost permanent state of excitement/stress.  It is impossible for a dog in this state to learn effectively, respond to commands reliably or react sensibly to situations and experiences. 

    1.

    Slip a lead on your dog and go to a quiet area where you can sit comfortably

    2.

    Give the dog a limited amount of lead to pull on (approx. 3 ft)

    3.

    Allow the dog to pace, wander, stand, try to jump up, whine or roll over

    4.

    Ignore the dog completely – no eye contact, say nothing

    5.

    Don’t allow the dog to yank your arm or let out any more lead length

    6.

    If the dog tries to jump up turn your face away and apply gentle downward pressure on the lead

    7.

    At some point the dog will lie down – count to 3 and bend down to stroke him slowly along his back

    8.

    Speak quietly and soothingly with a confident tone

    9.

    He will most likely immediately get up and begin activities again

    10.

    Withdraw your attention immediately and ignore him again

    11.

    He will most likely settle down much quicker this time – repeat the procedure

    12.

    Gradually increase the amount of time he will settle by intermittently giving him the attention

    13.

    If he breaks position go back to the beginning

    14.

    Once he will reliably remain calm – walks, training sessions etc can commence

    15.

    Being calm will earn him the activities he wants to enjoy

    16.

    Being over excited will get him ignored

     SELF CONTROL– Using Clicker Training

    1.

    Using medium level food treat hold it in an enclosed fist in front of your dogs nose

    2.

    Allow him to try to get the treat from you by pushing/nibbling/licking

    3.

    When he gives up (looks away / backs away) click and open your hand for him to take the treat

    4.

    No words are necessary at this stage

    5.

    If the dog starts to get really pushy/bullying put the treat away and ignore your dog

     

    NB. If your dog becomes aggressive stop the training and consult a canine behaviour consultant

    6.

    Once the dog understands that he gets the treat when he stops trying to take it introduce the cue

    7.

    As you open your hand give the ‘take it’ cue for him to take the treat

    8.

    Repeat until behaviour is established and clicking can be extinguished.

     

     

                          

     

    PUPPY OR RESCUE DOG??

    So you’ve decided to get a dog! The next few decisions you make will determine how successful your new relationship will be. As with any partnership, if you get it wrong, it can be disastrous, but if you get it right………. Aaah Heaven!

    How to make the best choice!

    Read on for help with considering :-

    Puppy v Rescue Dog

    Purebred v Mixed Breed

    Choice of Breed (this can be a tuffie!)

    Dog v Bitch

    Small / Medium / Large

    Owner - Dog Mismatch is the most common reason for dogs ending up in rescue!!

    PUPPIES

    PRO'S : Adorable, Cute, Funny, malleable, owners have knowledge of every experience, easy to train, ability to choose a specific breed of choice, Knowledge of parenting and temperaments of parents, Expensive ~ anything from £400 - £1000!!

    CON'S : Housetraining, Chewing, Digging, Mouthing & Nipping, Jumping up, Excessive Energy, Need a lot of time, Cannot be left alone for long periods, must be extensively socialised to avoid problems ~ this takes a lot of time and energy for the first 18 months,

    RESCUE DOGS

    PRO’s : Giving a second chance to a dog, In some cases saving a life, Housebroken in most cases, Usually sleep through the night straight away, No waiting to have to go on walks, Immediately able to walk long distances (subject to health) What you see is what you get, the size, personality, temperament and energy levels of the dog have already developed, Can be very loving and loyal

    CON’s : Unknown history of the dog, possibility of emotional scarring if dog has been abused, this can usually be overcome but can take time and patience, Bad habits may have developed which would need to be untrained and new ones trained to replace them.

    PUREBRED (PEDIGREE)

    PRO’s : Ability to gain knowledge of the breed you are choosing, Able to assess characteristic traits to decide if they suit your lifestyle, Good breeding should ensure less health problems (although this is rarely the case these days!)

    CON’s : Selective breeding over the years has interfered with temperaments, many come with specific health problems, Show stock quality does not necessarily mean good temperament or trainability, Cost a lot of money to buy.

    MIXED BREED

    PRO’s : Often more robust dogs, less health problems, less reactive, calmer and easier to train, have no strong overriding characteristics to deal with (ie German Shepherds are Natural Guard Dogs) Less chance of inherited genetic ‘issues’, They are One of a kind!

    CON’s : Little knowledge of breed characteristics, can be all shapes and sizes, have no particular ‘look’ about them,

    DOG’S v BITCH’S

    There's a lot of controversy when it comes to the battle of the sexes. Some people are adamant that bitches are easier to train and tend to be more loving. Whilst others will disagree, stating that females are more independent and aloof. Males are said to be more aggressive, but neutering can dramatically change their nature, and if you do find yourself with an aggressive female, she will often be far worse than a male!! Un-neutered dogs of both sexes can always present problems. Males can wander off in search of females in season and can be prone to becoming excellent escape artists. Females may have phantom pregnancies and can be difficult to manage during their season. It is best to seek specific advice on the breed you are thinking of getting and consider a full analysis of your lifestyle and how they are going to fit in. The bottom line is ~ each individual dog is different, with it’s own characteristics and personalities ~ just as we are!!

    SMALL / MEDIUM / LARGE

    This really is going to be dependant upon a lot of other factors and is mostly an important consideration when you are analysing your lifestyle. Small : Can be a bit less work, a bit less mess, generally have very big characters and lots of energy, terriers can have large personal space and a definitive idea of who plays with who and when!! (depending on breed of course.) Medium : Medium sized breeds tend to be good all rounder's, Generally have plenty of energy and need a lot of commitment to exercise, tend to like busy lifestyles ~ getting out and about with the family as much as possible. Large : Many of the larger breeds actually need less exercise than the medium, they tend to suffer physical stress if over exercised and do better with several smaller walks rather than fewer long ones. Obviously the larger the body the more food it requires, although not always the case for the more sedentary breeds. Large breeds take up a lot of space and need larger houses to accommodate them, they are often unaware of their size and can tend to knock over small toddlers around the home, especially dogs between the ages of 6-18mths (the gangly adolescent!)

    Whatever choices you make, all dogs will progress and develop depending on the way the are handled and trained by their owners, so even if you choose a breed you feel guarantee’s you a ‘family pet’ with inconsistent ownership, lack of Socialisation and training, a monster can still be created!!

    CHOICE OF BREED

    This area is too big to cover in this newsletter. It is however essential that you choose the right breed for your circumstances. For further information on breed characteristics visit the Purchase Guidance Pages of the website or give me a call on 0845 257 9501.

     

     

    RECOMMENDED READING

    & PRESENTS FOR DOG LOVERS!

    The following are a selection of books that I recommend regularly to clients for training and behavioural purposes. The insight and information provided in these books, when applied will have a phenomenal effect on the relationship you have with your dog and how well he responds to you and your education of him.

    I have included a brief description of each book and where you can obtain it from, for those of you with tight budgets I highly recommend Amazon’s used books marketplace.  Many of my books have come via these suppliers at a hugely reduced cost, many of them still look brand new!! If you encounter any difficulties getting hold of any of these books, please email me on michelle@tru-nature.co.uk and I will assist where possible. 

    If there is a particular subject or aspect of dog training or behaviour you would like to gain further knowledge of, please feel free to get in touch and I will be happy to recommend other publications relating to your specific topic.

    The Culture Clash ~ Jean Donaldson (Amazon) ~ Understanding Dogs Better: A book offering an exciting new perspective on the relationship between man and dog.   Extremely thought provoking and offers practical realistic aspects of behaviour and training based on research and extensive experience of working with and training dogs.

    The Other End of the Leash ~ Patricia McConnell (Amazon) ~ Understanding Dogs Better: This book reveals a revolutionary new perspective on our relationship with dogs, how they might interpret our behaviour as well as essential advice on how to interact more effectively with your dog

    Dominance Fact or Fiction ~ Barry Eaton ( www.dog-dominance.co.uk) ~ Interesting Insight into ‘pack rules’ or the ‘dominance theory’: For those of you who are or have been sold on the dominance theory that has overshadowed dogs and there relationships with their owners for many years now, this little book may offer you an alternative perspective to consider and apply to your relationship with your dog.

    Clicking with your Dog ~ Peggy Tillman (Amazon) ~ Clicker Training : An easy step by step book about teaching yourself and your dog clicker training.  Illustrated and well explained, this will get you clicking and your dog responding quickly and enjoyably!

    The Dog’s Mind ~ Bruce Fogle (Amazon) ~ Technical Canine Understanding: This book is hugely informational, it is written in a more technical way and provides a deep understanding of how dogs perceive the world around them, how they see, hear, learn and relate to their owners, why they suffer from stress and how it can be coped with and much more!!

    Lets Play with our dog ~ Dee Woodcock (www.crosskeysbooks.com) ~ Great for Winter Games indoors!!! : Practical and realistic advice on a whole range of games to play with your dog. It’s easy, it’s fun and your dog will love you for it!!

    Diary of a Dotty Dog Doctor ~ John Fisher (Amazon) ~ Understanding dogs better:   A delightlful book written entirely from case studies of the late John Fisher.  Humurous, enlightening, and a very enjoyable yet still informational read on the aspects of dogs, their behaviour and how to improve your relationship with them.

    On Talking Terms with Dogs - Calming Signals ~ Turid Rugaas (Amazon) ~ Reading Canine Body Language & Communication Signals : Every dog needs his human to read this book!!!!  A superb book that explains the intricate nuances of canine communication helping us to understand them better and communicate back to them more effectively.  This book will help anyone have a deeper and more meaningful relationship with their dog.

    Stress in Dogs ~ Scholz & von Rheinhardt ~ (Amazon) ~ How Dogs show Stress & What you can do about it: This book can improve the lives of dogs as well as humans with a sound approach to resolving stress-related problems.  If you think your dog does not suffer from stress……… you might find this book very interesting.  Stress is most often the cause behind many behavioural problems.

    Bones Would Rain From the Sky ~ Suzanne Clothier (Amazon)  A fantastic book!! ~ Improving your relationship with your dog: ‘If dog’s could pray, they would ask that people read this thoughtful and warmhearted book.  It demonstrates how empathy, respect (and a little wry humour) can unleash the untapped potential of the Human—Canine bond.

    Don't Shoot the Dog  ~ Karen Pryor (Amazon)  ~ Improving your relationship with your dog: The principles of the revolutionary "clicker training" method. Eight methods of ending undesirable habits - from furniture-clawing cats to sloppy room-mates. The ten laws of "shaping" behaviour - for results without strain or pain through "affection training". Tips for house-training the dog, improving your tennis game, or dealing with an impossible teenager. Explorations of exciting new uses for reinforcement training.

     

     

    Winter Games to Play with your Dogs

      Well, it’s that time again, it’s wet, it’s muddy, it’s cold ............... IT’S WINTER!! 

     Fear not, this month’s article is full of ideas for games and things you can do with your dogs, without spending too much time outside!

     Now don’t get me wrong, our dogs need their exercise, just as we do, but for those days, when you’ve already been out once and got soaked, the wind is howling, the rain is pouring and you just can’t face another trek into the weather (you know the days I mean!) a good dose of one-one bonding with a large measure of mental stimulation can provide our dogs with some excellent ‘brain exercise’  which can quite often prove more tiring than the physical stuff.

    Hide & Seek ~ The simplest things are often the best, one of my (and my dogs fave’s) a good ole fashioned game of hide & seek.  You can get the human members of the household to hide whilst you keep the dog in one room, then release him off to find them, they can call him to give him a clue, especially if he’s never played this before, once he gets the hang of the game, try not calling him to make it harder. This is a fantastic game to play with the kids, everyone loves it and ends up falling around in giggles  Remember, when the dog discovers you, have a big praise party, so he finds it fabulous fun to find the ‘prize’ you could reward him with a yummy treat of favourite game.

     Alternatively you could hide your dogs favourite toy, then let him out and encourage him to find it, again if he’s never played the game he might need a bit of help to start with but he will quickly get the idea.  As soon as he finds the toy, heap on the praise, and have a game with the toy he has found.  If you have multiple dogs in the house, (like mine) this game then becomes a race too, who can find it first!! (I always make sure everyone wins an equal number of times, don’t want any tantrums!!) 

    Fetch ~ The big fave with most dogs, but not all dogs naturally want to fetch and need to be taught and encouraged to do so.  Remember to try lots of different toys for this game if your dog is not a natural retriever, some dogs prefer particular toys over others, for instance, when we play this indoors, my dog would much prefer to fetch a teddy than a ball.  If your dog has never played this game, or seems reluctant to pick things up, most dogs will prefer something soft to start with.  Clicker training can be highly effective for training a dog to hold things and fetch them.

    Name that Toy ~ This is a fun game to play, and also a cool trick to show friends and family.  Start by choosing just one of your dog’s favourite toys, and as you show it to him, give it a name, teddy, kong, ball etc.  Toss the toy a short distance away and ask him to ‘fetch teddy’.  If he runs to grab it praise him and treat him, even if he doesn’t bring it back to start with.  Repeat this many times until you are sure he understands, then toss teddy into a pile of other toys and practise it this way, he has to choose teddy over all the others.  Once he can do this reliable, start teaching the names of other toys in the same way.  This game can lead in nicely to………

    Tidy up your toys ~ Teach your dog to fetch his toys and put them in a box or basket to tidy them up.  Again this is a great game for him to play, very stimulating, great fun and also useful!!   Your dog will love being told how clever he is!  Once you have taught your dog to tidy up his toys, you can then transfer this learning to other things that could be useful, tidy up the rubbish, tidy up the clothes etc.  Once your dog is reliably returning to you with his named toy, have a basket or box in your hand as he brings it back and hold it out for him to drop the toy into, click and treat him for getting it right and he will quickly realise what you are asking him to do.  Practise practise until he is reliably bringing named toys and dropping in the box to get his reward!!

     Scent Discrimination ~ This is a great game for all dogs but especially those who ‘love to sniff everything’.   Great mental stimulation for your dog and something that could turn out to be very useful one day if you drop your keys in the field and you want your dog to help you find them!!! I have done this……… I hadn’t taught my dog to scent at the time tho :-(

    If you would like further info on how to play or teach your dog any of the above games or any other games, please click here

     

     

    THE DOMINANCE THEORY

    True or False?

    Have you heard of these rules?

  • Always eat before your dog

  • Never let your dog on the sofa

  • Always remove items from your dog that he values

  • Never allow your dog to go through a door ahead of you

  • Always make your dog move if he is in the way

  • Have you ever applied these rules? With how much success? Read on to further investigate the truths behind the dominance theory and pack rules….............

    There is obviously much more to this topic than can be covered in this short article, more material will be posted on the website shortly for those interested.

    The theory of ‘pack rules’ was introduced during the 1980’s and used as an explanation for the motives behind canine behaviour, through the study of wolf behaviour. The findings of these studies were then published as methods of training and behaviour modification for dogs displaying signs of ‘dominance’. They provided information on how to be the ‘alpha male’ ensuring your pet dog would never challenge for leadership of the ‘pack’. There are now more modern day views that offer alternative perspectives on how and why a dog behaves and reacts to it’s environment in the way that it does. Research supports the theory that truly wild wolves do not even exhibit the theory of ‘pack rules’.

    The studies of the hierarchical structure and social bonds are what form the basis of the pack rules theory, as it has been applied to domesticated dogs. This research explained the alpha male role within the pack structure, how they exhibit and maintain their dominance and how the rest of the pack fit into the ‘pecking’ order. It explains that the alpha male, is the strongest animal in the pack, controls the entrance/exit to the pack sleeping areas and will lead the hunt. When a kill has been made the alpha male will eat first, and so a structure of dominance and submission exists within the group, which is maintained by the ‘pack rules’.

    In order to deal with these dominant behavioural traits, people were advised to look out for dogs that were pushing through doorways in front of people, pulling on the lead, climbing on the furniture, sitting at the top of the stairs or in doorways, rushing down the stairs in front of people and consistently guarding possessions and resources. The owners were then advised to follow strict ‘dominant’ characteristic themselves to de-rank the dog within the ‘pack’. Things such as slamming doors on noses of dog’s trying to rush through first, standing or sitting in their bed, ignoring them at every opportunity, making them move if they were in the way, preventing them from sleeping anywhere other than on the floor and ensuring that no dog ate a meal before the family had eaten.

    When applied many of these techniques failed to work and often made the situation worse as the dog became more confused by the fact that the rules kept changing. When perceived from a different angle, surely many if not all these behaviours can be attributed to a lack of consistent education, much like a child that has never been taught table manners, would probably eat with his fingers!

    The main problem with the theory is that much of the research it is based on was carried out on artificial captive packs of wolves. These groups would not exhibit a true pack like behaviour. The other more obvious problem is that we are not dogs, how can we possibly believe that another species lives with us, in the same manner as he would live with his own kind? We are not able to speak to them in their own language, so surely the best we can hope to achieve is to be able to understand them (us being the more intelligent species supposedly) and find ways to communicate our wishes to them in ways which they can understand.

    Many aggressive displays by dogs were explained away by the ‘dominance theory’ when in fact, the alpha male in a pack of truly wild wolves, very rarely displays any aggressive behaviour at all? It seems that the study of wolf behaviour has relevance to dog behaviour in that it helps us to recognise and understand the behaviours as individual concepts and as intra-species communication. It is without a doubt that we form strong social attachments but we are not a pack.

    The rituals, body language, facial expressions, scent communications and behavioural nuances which dogs are able to communicate between each other are difficult for us to either express or interpret, purely because we are not canine. So the problem of so called ‘dominant’ behaviour seems to require a different explanation, in order to be accurately identified and put into context within the mixed species environment our dogs live in.

    The absence of consistent guidance & parenting from the human half of the relationship allows confusion to creep in and un-educated choices to be made by animals lacking the capacity to read minds!

    Like humans, every dog is different, they each have different personalities, different characteristics, some are more timid than others, some more confident and quick to take advantage of opportunities. Every single canine behaviour problem will require a different approach based on the breed of dog, the personality, the individual characteristic traits, the owners personality and character, the lifestyle of both the owner and the dog etc etc. There is much more to consider regarding the cause of behaviour than simply dominance or submission, and the easiest place to start, is to learn how to view the individuality of the situation from the dog’s perspective, rather than assuming he is constantly trying to get one up on his owner or take over the household!

     

     

    ALL ABOUT CLICKER TRAINING

  • What is it?
  • Why use it?
  • How does it work?
  • What’s so good about it?
  • Clicker training is an effective, safe and kind way to teach your dog any behaviour!!

    Even Children can train Puppies and Dogs using Clicker Training!

    What is Clicker Training? ~ Desirable behaviour is marked by using a "clicker," a mechanical device that makes a short, distinct "click" sound which tells your dog exactly when they're doing the right thing. This clear form of communication, combined with positive reinforcement, (a reward) is an effective, safe, and humane way to teach any animal any behaviour that it is physically and mentally capable of doing.

    When we use clicker training we look for situations that encourage the dog to teach themselves what to do. We all remember the self taught lessons for life! The difference between an animal that behaves with purpose, rather than by habit, is vast. Clicker trained animals try to learn new behaviours. They remember behaviours even years later because they were aware of them as they learned them, rather than acquiring them without awareness or by force.

    This is a process which will enhance and deepen your relationship with your dog, through greater understanding, good communication and with absolute trust. Dogs are very, very good learners for the whole of their lives. They welcome learning, relish problem solving and finish satisfied happy dogs.

    Why use a Clicker? ~ With the click, a trainer can precisely “mark” behaviour so that the animal knows exactly what it was doing at the point it earned a reward. That’s why clicker trainers call the click an “event marker.” The click also bridges or connects the behaviour and its reward, and so is also called a “bridging signal.”

    How does Clicker Training Work? ~ The trainer clicks at the moment the behaviour occurs: The dog sits, the trainer clicks simultaneously. Clicking is like taking a picture of the behaviour the trainer wishes to reinforce. After “taking the picture,” the trainer gives the animal something it likes, usually a small piece of food but sometimes play, petting, or other rewards.

    Very soon (sometimes within two or three clicks), an animal will associate the sound of the click with something it likes: the reward. Since it wishes to repeat that pleasurable experience, it will repeat the action it was doing when it heard the click. Any behaviour can be trained with any animal following these three simple steps:

  • Get the behaviour.

  • Mark the behaviour.

  • Reinforce the behaviour

  • Asking for the Behaviours? ~ Clicker trainers differ from traditional trainers in that they wait until the behaviour is well understood by the animal before using a verbal command or “cue.” A cue is the name of a behaviour, such as “sit,” or a hand signal.

    Until the Dog knows what the behaviour is, any name for it would be meaningless! eg: ask an untrained dog to sit, he will look blankly at you, teach him to sit first, then associate the verbal cue ‘sit’, with the behaviour you have taught and voila!! Your dog understands your cue and will respond with sitting behaviour.

    Do you have to forever Click & Treat? ~ Once a behaviour is learned and on cue, there’s usually no need for further clicks, as the dog now understands the behaviour. Clicker trainers can maintain the behaviour by replacing specially good treats with occasional and less intensive rewards including a pat or praise. Learned cues and behaviours are also maintained by real-life rewards: for example sitting quietly at the door is rewarded by opening the door so that the dog can have a walk. Clicker trainers then save clicks and treats for the next new thing they want to train.

    What's Good About Clicker Training? ~

  • The clicker lets you separate the behaviour (leaving the rabbit chase) from the reward, (arriving back with you for a Big Hug).

  • The clicker works the same for everybody in the family

  • The clicker lets us teach the dogs tricks that we never thought we could - ‘sleepy’ (place your chin on the floor and look at me in a very sad way)

  • The clicker works for EVERY dog. It is science, not myth or legend.

  • In fact it works for every animal, including fish, rats, dolphins, killer whales, horses, pigs, sheep (how did you think they trained all the sheep in “Babe”?).

  • We say clicker training is simple, but not easy. The principle is simple, using it with full efficiency and effectiveness can take time to learn ... but it is a great learning journey, one of the best you will ever travel.

  • Clicker Training clicks itself. This method is SO effective the dogs get it super quick, and you can have a sense of achievement very, very quickly. The more you learn, the more you teach which builds a desire to learn and teach more!

  •  LINKS TO CLICKER TRAINING SITES

    www.clickandtreat.com

    www.clickerzoneuk.co.uk

    www.clickersolutions.com

     

     

    Why you should PROOF TRAIN your dog?

    Does YOUR Dog Do any of These While You are out Walking??

  • Not come back when called
  • Run over to other dogs
  • Run over to people
  • Interrupt children playing games
  • Chase Bicycles
  • Chase Small Furry Animals
  • Chase Joggers
  • Ignore you
  • Fail to respond to the simplest commands
  • If they do……… you are not alone!

    Many owners experience exactly these problems on a daily basis with their pets, at best it’s an annoying situation, at worst potentially dangerous and even life threatening for your dog. Read on for advice and information on why this happens and how to go about finding a solution...........

    Dogs are phenomenally intelligent and have the ability to associate many verbal and visual cues with behaviours we would like them to perform, why then, do they sometimes appear to ‘not understand’ or be ’deaf’? Dog’s learn best when we teach them gradually and consistently, if we start increasing distractions and changing the criteria of desired responses before they clearly understand what we want them to do, they are doomed to fail.

    By following a structured process of education, we can automate responses and ‘training’ becomes so effective our dogs react AUTOMATICALLY without hesitation. Any training or behaviour can be taught using this structured process of learning which ensures achievement of the best results, in the absence of this process, dog’s still learn, but it seems less reliable and has a tendency to break down when we need it most!

    When we educate our children, it is an ongoing process over many years, things have to be repeated over and over and we have to be consistent so they are clear of where their boundaries are. It is the same for our dogs, it is not a few quick training sessions when the dog arrives, it is a persistent approach that takes place all the time, during training sessions and within everyday life situations.

    The most effective way to improve reliability and response from your dog is to ‘proof’ it, this means teaching the dog to respond to your cue’s no matter what challenging distractions are taking place. This can only be achieved by following a structured training approach, so your dog learns in stages and does not progress on to the next stage until he is 100% perfect at each one. For example, if your dog won’t return to you when called in the familiarity of your home or garden, there is no way he is going to do it when you get him out in the big wide world full of wonderful smells, sights and sounds!!

    We start with the easiest lessons, in the least distracting situations and progress in stages. Using only positive reinforcement methods dog’s learn to ignore the distractions, choosing to remain interactive with their owners instead.

    For further assistance with ‘proofing’ your dogs reliability please visit other areas of the website where you can find details of our Proof Training Workshops and training classes, Training Worksheet and instantly downloadable informational e-books. The Tru Nature Training Journal provides written details and a record card to help you organise your dog’s training in the most effective way.  See the dog shop for purchase details.

     

     

     LIVING WITH DOGS

     

    CONSISTENCY IS ORDER OF THE DAY Always use the same word for the same behaviour -  Be clear what he is allowed to do/not allowed to do - Be clear where he is allowed to go/not allowed to go - Don't keep moving the goal posts, this is why dogs get confused, and when they get confused - voila! you have problems!
    DOGS NEEDS ARE ACTUALLY QUITE SIMPLE All a dog really needs is Adequate and Well Balanced Food - Fresh Water - Warmth - Shelter - Adequate Attention - Adequate  Affection - Consistent Boundaries - Adequate Education in Acceptable Behaviour. - Physical Exercise and Mental Stimulation. Most often when owners are having problems with their dogs, one of these areas is lacking?
    IT'S EASIER TO TEACH THEM TO DO -     THAN TO DON'T If your dog is doing something you don't want him to, you may find it easier to replace the unwanted behaviour with something else that is more acceptable to you, by using operant conditioning techniques and rewarding ONLY those behaviours you want, you should be able to re-condition your dog to give an alternate response, providing you make it worth his while!!  Teach him something you DO want him to do rather than TRYING to STOP him doing something you don't want him to do. (it works with children too!)
    DOGS DO WHAT WORKS! IT'S THAT SIMPLE Dog behaviour is a constant experiment of what happens if I do this, what happens if I do that........ if something good happens for the dog - hey presto that behaviour is likely to get repeated.............. if nothing happens - what's the point? Waste of time.               Example :- Why don't dogs sit all day staring at fridges? They know they are full of yummy things to eat......... because nothing happens when they stare at the fridge! Why do dogs chase small furry creatures........ because they run, because it's fun, because it gives them a rush...... It's self rewarding! (and because nobody has given them an alternative that is more rewarding?)
    PROBLEM BEHAVIOURS ARE DOG BEHAVIOURS Most of the behavioural problems we encounter are Dogs being Dogs Doing What Dogs Do! except from our point of view they are doing it at inappropriate times, or too much, or not enough, or in the wrong place, or not the way we want them to.........WHY?  Probably because we haven't taught them any other way?
    TRAINING TIME IS ALL THE TIME If you are not teaching your dog, then his environment will be and you can bet it won't be teaching him the things you would like it to!   Your sofa will reward him for laying on it - the garbage will reward him with disgusting tasty treats if he rummages through it - chewing the table leg when you go out rewards him because he feels anxious and chewing something helps him to relax - children reward him when he sits near the dining table and they drop bits of their dinner on the floor - small furry creatures reward him by running when they see him.   Your dog will learn, with or without you, so it makes sense to be the one in control of the environment?
    OUR RULES MAKE NO SENSE TO DOGS! Taken from Jean Donaldson's 'The Culture Clash' (Recommended Reading) Virtually all natural dog behaviours chewing, barking, rough play, chasing moving objects, jumping up to greet, settling minor disputes with threat displays, establishing contact with strange dogs, guarding resources, leaning into steady pressure against their chests or necks, urinating on porous surfaces like carpets, defending themselves from perceived threat - are considered by humans to be behaviour problems. The rules which seem so obvious to us make absolutely no sense to dogs?

     

     

    THE DOG'S PERSPECTIVE! ~ DOGS SEE WHAT DOGS SEE

    HUMANS SEE

    DOGS SEE

    A Dining Table A large piece of wood - Very chewable
    A Three Seater Sofa A very comfy place to sleep - Also very chewable
    The Neighbours Cat An Excellent Source for a Chasing Game
    A Landscaped Garden A Playground with things to Dig & Eat & Allsorts
    Joggers and Cyclists More Great Chasing Games
    A Childs Recorder from School A Stick to chew & Play With
    A toilet A Source of Drinking Water
    A Carpeted Room An absorbent surface to urinate on
    A Rubbish Bin An excellent place to find yummy stuff to eat
    A Childs Soft Toy A Dog's Soft Toy
    A Pair of Shoes A lovely smelly chewable object

     

     

     

    SOCIALISATION & HABITUATION

    Socialisation = Socialisation is the process whereby an animal learns how to recognise and interact with the species with which it lives. In the wild this is likely to be limited to the animal’s own species, but for the domestic dog it includes other species such as man, cats, horses, sheep, rabbits etc. By learning how to interact with these the socialised dog develops communication skills which enable it to recognise, amongst other things, whether or not it is being threatened and how to recognise and respond to the intentions of others.

     

    Habituation = The process of familiarising a puppy with his environment and teaching him to disregard everyday encounters with such things as traffic, bicycles, household appliances, travelling in vehicles and as many environmental experiences as you can think of so that he becomes accustomed to these non-threatening events and learns that they are of no consequence to him.

     

    Why is it so Important? A few short weeks of intense concentrated repeated exposures to as many people, places and situations as possible will help to ensure a puppy grows up to be confident, outgoing, well balanced and able to cope with whatever life throws at him. By introducing a puppy as young as possible to as many experiences as possible, taking care that each experience is pleasant and rewarding you are providing him with the basic education that he will be able to draw upon for the rest of his life.

    There is a sensitive period of development in which socialisation and habituation must occur and be properly completed if the dog is not to grow up with problems. The degree of socialisation and habituation a dog receives will reflect proportionately in the extent of any problems he displays. Accordingly, a dog that has had no experience of a specific stimulus (men, children, other dogs, cats, horses, traffic, cyclists) at the completion of the sensitive period will always be fearful of it; a dog that has had some exposure, but not sufficient, will be better adjusted, although not entirely sound; and a dog that has had adequate experience of the stimulus in the sensitive period will grow up to be "bomb proof". Dogs that grow up to be fearful because they have been subjected to a lack of adequate socialisation and habituation can be improved by counter conditioning programmes, but the maxim 'prevention is better than cure' was never more applicable than the first few weeks of a domestic dog's life.

    In one year out of  approx. 800 dogs treated for behavioural problems - 79 of them, that’s 10%, had problems of fearfulness towards people or the environment due to a lack of early socialisation or habituation and a further  5% were incapable of relating to other dogs, again due to a lack of early socialisation.

     GET A FREE Comprehensive Puppy Socialisation Guide

    Name

    Email Address

    Instant Download!

     

     

    STRESS IN DOGS

    Stress is something that is common among dogs, as it is among humans, and how we recognise that stress and subsequently deal with the circumstances will determine how well we are able to prevent, control or rectify the situation.  Stress is brought about by the dog being in a situation in which he feels unable to cope, acceptable levels of stress are present in a dogs life all the time and these are necessary to stimulate and encourage personal growth and development, but when these challenges or demands become constant and unbearable, this is when stress becomes a problem and the body reacts in a way that makes it difficult for the animal to cope with his experience until such measures are taken to reduce the effects.  

     As with humans, each dog dependant upon its genetic make up, environmental influences and overall confidence will react to stress in different ways and at different levels.  Something that may cause one dog to become stressed would not necessarily another, they each have their own stress threshold which is the upper point at which a situation or experience exceeds a dogs ability to cope.  

    It is also comparable between humans and canines that stress can be cumulative, so when experiencing stressful situations, if ‘time out’ cannot be taken whereby it is possible to be completely removed from the stressful experience to regain calm, relax and rest the brain and nervous system, it is possible that the stress levels will keep on rising until such point as the person or animal can no longer cope with even the simplest of situations. 

    A dog can exhibit signs of becoming uncomfortable and stressed in a variety of situations and will convey this emotional message by a combination of signals involving body language and sometimes vocalisations.  If these signals go unnoticed then it is possible that the dogs stress threshold will be exceeded and he will begin exhibiting signs of a ‘stress response’ which is a chemical imbalance caused by the physical changes taking place in the brain when the animal becomes over stressed.  These responses can either be acute (sudden stressful reaction) or chronic (maintaining a state of stress for a prolonged period of time).  In both cases the behaviour of the dog will be altered due to the chemical changes within his nervous system which in turn alter his ability to recall from memory, solve problems efficiently and rationalise situations, he may become oversensitive to pain, over reactive to situations and unable to experience rewards or pleasure. 

    It is not uncommon to find stress behind a great number of behaviour problems encountered in dogs and if we are unaware of how to diagnose the behaviour accurately we will never really be able to get to the crux of the problem and help both the owner and the dog in the most effective way, with the most compassionate modifications in order to achieve the desired outcome without causing further stress or discomfort to the dog.  It is known through research that when a dog becomes highly stressed they are unable to think straight, this is not a conscious choice but as a result of neurochemical reactions in the brain over which they have no control.

    The reasons for a dog becoming stressed are very individual to each dog and as such every case must be examined within its own context. Every dog will be different physically and mentally, the environment they live in and the social interactions they have, will never be the same between animals.  All these aspects need to be taken into consideration when deciding what may or may not ‘stress out’ a dog.  Some causes to consider maybe socially related, owner aggression, rough handling, lead jerking, forcing him into positions and even aggression between other human members of the household, even if the aggression is not directed at the dog many of them will feel intensely uncomfortable and stressed in an argumentative household.

    BELOW ARE SOME EXAMPLES OF THINGS THAT CAN CAUSE STRESS AND SOME OF THE SIGNS A DOG DISPLAYS WHEN HE IS FEELING STRESSED.